Virtual trip to Bethlehem, Aida Camp and Al Walajah

 Our second day on the virtual trip to Palestine was to Bethlehem – a town well known and with places that are Holy to Muslims, Christians and Jews.

I am grateful to have been shown around by local people and to see the different approaches to help the local children manages their situation. With Dr Abedfettah, the Director of Aruwad, the Cultural and arts society in Aida refugee camp we visited the large refugee camp of Aida, where many, many thousands of people are squeezed on to land of 0.007 square km. The original wooden structures from people escaping the 1948 Nakba  were replaced with brick structures and due to the lack of land families would build upwards. With a very young population, 45% being under 18, and very restricted space with land given for recreation commandeered and walled off by the Israelis, the Aruwad arts centre has become key to providing as wide a range of activities as possible to not only keep the youth busy, but try to give them an important sense of self and their potential. The projects looked wonderful, often with visiting groups working in partnership to support the young people in arts, drama, music, film, sports, and many other areas. It was inspiring to see such a positive determination in such a difficult circumstance. 

Our next guide was a spokeswoman from the Bethlehem Municipality, who talked of her own experiences as well as giving a very informative talk on the issues that Bethlehem faces with water, security, land issues and, of course, the Wall.

The most memorable phrase was “When abnormal living is considered normal” and I think this is the most significant issue across Palestine. This is the lifestyle that the world does not see but needs to be woken up to realise the total injustice of anyone having to live in this way. It is so difficult to imagine all the complexities in living this way that without the photographic evidence, people can easily believe this cannot be true. When you see and understand the truth, the injustice hits you like a bullet. Very movingly, our tour guide Nariman brushed quickly over her personal experience as a child where a soldier tried to kill her, which left her traumatised. She said this matter of factly, knowing that her story was echoed by so many others who see this “abnormal living” as normalised, in order to explain how she was introduced to the Aruwad Arts centre in Aida camp.

In this world-famous Holy town, visitors from across the world want to come, as they do to every famous place in every country. Worshippers want to come and spend time and money here to buy souvenirs of their pilgrimage, and to pray and medicate in the place of Christ’s birth. The tomb of Rachel is here and this is holy to all three Abrahamic religions; and yet we are told that tourists must stay in Jerusalem, this boosting that economy, and can only stay the night in Bethlehem if Jerusalem is full. Tourists are rushed off without having any time to browse the local handcrafts; thus, critical tourist economy is lost to the Bethlehem craft people and syphoned off to Jerusalem for the mostly Israeli economy.

Our last guide was from a small village called Al Walajah, which was so walled off that there is only one small entrance, and as Abed recounted its hard not to accidently go to the Israeli settlement as the village road is very close but not so obvious – but if any visitor did take the wrong path they would likely  be killed.

It is so moving hearing from the people wo live there; and despite still sadly being n the UK instead of actually being out there, talking directly with people living right now in Palestine is very moving. We were given important insights into history and especially the British part in the current situation which was very instrumental from the Victorian era until well past the 1948 war when we left munitions to help the Israelis against the Palestinians  – something I hadn’t realised until I went there


myself last year -another omission in our school history lessons.

My personal thoughts are these: Bethlehem seems to represent in one microcosm, all the difficulties, importance, systematic abuse and treachery of the way the occupiers treat the Palestinians. Land that was deemed Palestinian, even after miles had already been carved away by the 1948 war, the 1967 war and many more incursions, was then carved even further by the monstrous illegal wall. One picture shows a man with a prize olive tree, centuries old on his land, had the tree demolished without a glance, and the wall erected so close to his home slicing his land away from him, and leaving his driveway hanging on the edge of a precipice cut away by the Israelis. The pure destructiveness of this and of so much done by the Israelis in expanding their own settlements is purely vindictive – directly against the human rights and actually coming under the official definition of genocide: Genocide is not only when people are killed in large numbers; but the definition includes when a land is made uninhabitable in order to try and force people to leave. The water situation is one of these – where not only can the people of Bethlehem not get water easily, and when they have to buy it, it costs four times as much as Israeli’s, the sewerage and waste water from Israel is pumped on to Palestinian lands which then makes the and useless as pasture. Another example of the impossibility to get any planning permission for any new build; and then after warnings the Israelis can bulldoze the buildings saying that they don’t have planning permission. More shocking is that the army can enter anyone’s house and forcibly remove people – stories I heard before when I visited Hebron. The world stays silent while the Palestinians are moved on to smaller and smaller pieces of their own land. Now only 13% of the Bethlehem land can be used by Palestinians.

All in all, a packed and informative trip – well put together and emotional as well as interesting. Thank you all for your sharing of time and experiences, and I wish you all peace and safety in what seems a worsening situation.

Linda Rose

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